The Komarams clad in red, with blood  dripping from the forehead and waving swords as they dance around the main temple. The frenzied followers accompanying them singing profane songs about the deity. The frantic feets wearing ‘chilambu’, marching in tune with the steady rhythm of the ‘chenda’ and clamoring of bells.  And that is  Kodungalloor Bharani, an ancient and famous Hindu Festival in Central Kerala. It is that day when the entire crowd gets into a common state of trans. The devotion is expressed in its wild and raw form here. It is the celebration of liberated souls venting out their mind before the mother Goddess. Bharani is an experience of a lifetime unparallel to anything you had seen before or after.

Kodungalloor Sri Kurumba Temple is one of the most renowned Devi Temple in Kerala. It has its history dated back to the days of origin of Kerala. One of the legends associated with the temple says that Lord Parashurama had built the temple. ‘Kannaki’ of the famous Tamil classic ‘Chilapathikaram’ is  believed to have attained salvation in this temple. The Bharani Festival is annually conducted to celebrate the triumph of  Devi Bhadrakali over the demon ‘Daruka’ and his apparent slaying.  The two main rituals associated with the Bharani festival are ‘Kaavu Theendal’ and ‘Kozhi Kallu Moodal’.

I had been planning to visit the temple during Bharani since 2015, but the chance came only in 2018.  I did spend a full day in the temple, in the day of “Aswathy- Kaavu Theendal’. The intention was to capture the real vibe and spirit of the Kodungalloor Bharani. The crowd doesn’t seem to bother the heat and humidity of the hot summer day.  The atmosphere in the tightly packed temple compound was electric. Everything that I saw around was worth capturing. But it was difficult to protect the camera and lens from violent crowd and dust and so I was cautious. I took elevated positions near the banyan trees and on rooftops to get better views while keeping the equipment safe. However, the real display of emotion was beyond the range of a frame.

In the next 6 hours, I had clicked around 300 snaps and by the time the camera battery had dried out. I was also exhausted and decided to leave and return to Kochi. Kodungalloor Bharani is one of those prime events that portray the rich and colorful traditions of Hindu culture in South India. I suggest every traveler to add this festival to your calendar and plan a day to experience the breathtaking display of human sentiment.

Location: Kodungalloor Sri Kurumba Devi Temple, Thrissur, Kerala